Berlin
Berlin is raw, creative, and layered with history, where gritty neighborhoods, bold art, and constant reinvention make the city feel alive and unapologetically itself.
Berlin wears its history openly, woven into the streets, architecture, and everyday life. Museums and memorials coexist with bold street art, experimental spaces, and a constantly evolving music and creative scene. It’s a city that doesn’t try to soften its edges or explain itself—Berlin invites you to look closer, stay curious, and experience it on your own terms.
This section is brought to you by my daughter Calla!
She lives and works in Berlin so no better person to give you the good stuff.
@callahoran_
“I organized it by neighborhood (Kiez in German) because that is my favorite way to explore Berlin. These are obviously not all of the Kiez’ of Berlin, but they are the ones that have shaped my experience of the city.”
~Calla D
Kreuzberg/Neukölln
(aka: Kreuzkölln)
Shaped by immigration, activism, and creativity, this Kiez is diverse, vibrant, and slightly gritty. It runs along the Maybachufer canal and is a hotspot for the artsy, eclectic fashion forward scene of Berlin. It’s a little edgier, but totally vibrant.
At La Maison Berlin, a cult favorite right along the river, you can sit outside and enjoy sandwiches, quiche, soup & pastries, plus smoothies, coffee & tea, all in a casual cafe with a terrace. They also make delicious cocktails and a bangin’ wine list.
Spätis (late-night corner stores) are part of everyday life in Kreuzberg. Open late—sometimes all night—they’re where locals grab a drink, a snack, or simply gather outside on warm evenings. More than convenience stores, Spätis function as informal meeting spots, especially in neighborhoods like Kreuzberg where the street itself often feels like the living room.
The Rad is a relaxed natural wine bar in Kreuzberg with a neighborhood feel and an easygoing energy. Expect thoughtfully selected wines, small seasonal plates, and a crowd that lingers rather than rushes. It’s understated and social—exactly the kind of place you settle into for the evening without much planning. This is just one of many so keep your eyes open for these treasures.
If you walk through the area you’ll see lots of other happening spots like:
Gazzo for pizza
local faves like Ankerklause and Fuchsbau.
Also check out vintage stores like Soul and Style and Sing Blackbird Vintage.
There’s a Turkish market along the canal every Tuesday and Thursday, and once a month in the summer there’s a Fleamarket
Other faves in this neighborhood:
Le Bon - brunch
Kimchi Princess - Korean -one of my personal faves
Buya Ramen Factory-all time favorite ramen, anywhere!! Honest! (But I have yet to go to Japan, so…)
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Friedrichshain
Energetic and expressive, Friedrichshain is known for street art, cafés, vintage shops, and nightlife. The stretch along the former Wall anchors the area’s history, while parks and open spaces balance the buzz. It’s social, creative, and very much a place people actually live.
Late-night options are easy here—grab a döner, a burger, or fresh Mediterranean without much effort. Cafés and restaurants gather around Boxhagener Platz, home to a Saturday food market and a Sunday flea market. My daughter lives in this neighborhood, and it has far more to offer than you might expect at first glance.
One of my favorite things I did here was wine tasting at the darling wine shop Weinladen Berlin. You can sit outside with friends and taste wine by the glass and then decide what you’re bringing home to enjoy later.
Also in this neighborhood, right along the Spree, is my favorite spot: Holzmarkt 25. This creative, community-driven space blends food, music, and everyday life, with cafés, small venues, and riverfront places to sit and linger. It’s casual, a little chaotic, and very Berlin—best experienced without much of a plan.
Li.ke – Serious Thai is a small, no-frills spot serving bold, authentic Thai dishes with real depth of flavor. It’s straightforward and consistently good—easy to return to.
Prenzlauerberg
Prenzlauerberg - much more family friendly. Relaxed but still elevated. Great area for fine dining. Also does a Saturday food market at Kollwitzplatz. Great for going to the parks with kids
Wohnzimmer bar
Kaztanienallee
Cocodrillo
Soho House
Mauer park
Wen Cheng (has many locations)
Mitte & Schoenberg
Mitte - Think high end shopping, big brand stores. Fun if you want a day of shopping and there are a few hidden gems like grabbing a drink in Cafe cinema or lunch at Avocado Club Also you can see jazz jam sesh for 3€ every Wednesday at Bflat. Make sure to get there at 8 because there’s limited seating.
Schoenberg - much more authentic Berlin, full of German people, not tourists or international residents. Worth visiting the historic Nollendorfplatz- the original gay neighborhood of Berlin. Also has a Saturday market, still good restaurants and cafes.
Green & Open Spaces
In the summer, we spend lots of time in the parks and Lakes of Berlin. When you need an escape from the urban intensity you can get lost in the vast green space when the city is in bloom.
Tiergarten-is Berlin’s green heart—a vast, wooded park that feels more like a forest than a formal city garden. Crisscrossed by walking and biking paths, it’s where locals jog, picnic, read, or simply pass through on their way across the city. Despite its central location, Tiergarten offers a rare sense of quiet and space, making it one of the best places to slow down and see how Berlin breathes day to day.
Tempelhofer Feld-A former airport turned public park where locals bike, picnic, skate, and simply spend time. Vast, open, and uniquely Berlin. The annual Festival of Giant Kites features massive 40-50 meter kites, stunt kite demonstrations, workshops, and family activities, typically held in September. We attended this festival and it was a visual treat for sure.
Strandbad Plötzensee -the last time I was in Berlin, we had a perfect “beach” day here, located at the southern edge of Volkspark Rehberge. It remains one of Berlin's most popular urban escapes for swimming, music, and lakeside relaxation. The day we went there was a DJ spinning and wood fire pits glowing—great energy all around.
Wansee / Schlactensee / Weisensee
Schloss Park Charlottenburg
Clubs, Museums and more
Clubs - if there’s anything Berlin is known for it’s Clubbing. You can try your luck at the legendary techno temple Berghain which has a very strict door policy, but there is a club for everyone in Berlin.
my personal fave; Sisyphos. Much more fun, playful and color forward than the typical all black techno scene.
I recommend checking the Resident Advisor (RA) app for weekly events organized by each club—it’s the easiest way to find music you actually enjoy and a vibe that suits you.
Museums -Berlin’s museums mirror the city—layered, reflective, and wide-ranging. From classical antiquities to contemporary art and powerful memorial spaces, they offer essential context to Berlin’s past and present.
Hamburger Banhof -is Berlin’s leading contemporary art museum, housed in a striking former 19th-century railway station It continues to host major exhibitions and special programs throughout the year.
C/O Berlin-is a premier exhibition space for photography and visual media located in the historic Amerika Haus in Berlin-Charlottenburg. It hosts approximately 20 changing exhibitions annually, featuring both world-renowned masters and emerging international talent.
Fotografiska Berlin- is the German outpost of the famous Stockholm-based contemporary museum of photography, art, and culture. Located in the heart of Mitte, it is housed in the historic Kunsthaus Tacheles, a former department store and famous 1990s artist squat.
Neue Gallerie -(New National Gallery) is an architectural masterpiece designed by Ludwig Mies van der Rohe. Located at Berlin's Kulturforum, it is the primary home for 20th-century European and American art.
Best Döner-(In Calla’s humble opinion)
Nefis
Rüyam
K’Ups
And More…
Kiez Kinos (neighborhood cinemas) -If you’re looking for that authentic, cozy Berlin vibe, Kiez Kinos are where the city’s heart beats. These aren't your typical megaplexes; they are independent gems with velvet curtains, wooden floors, and a dedicated focus on "OmU" (Original with German subtitles).
Follow culture magazine The Berliner - they post weekly event round ups to keep you up to date on the constant happenings all over the city. Festivals, exhibitions and more.
Pro Tip:
Getting around-Berlin’s public transportation system—U-Bahn, S-Bahn, trams, and buses—is reliable and easy to navigate. You don’t need a car; moving between neighborhoods is part of how you experience the city.
